接到 Invitation, 很驚喜, 又很 r 頭, 定是我近來的紀錄裡, 寫滿oversized的日文, 文字裡又玩了tailoring, 所以前陣子所種下的因, 帶去今日黃昏時段的果.

秀點是 Lee Garden 209, 正是店舖本身, 以及對開的走廊. 約10位的男男女女模特兒, 人有鬼有, 出出入入演繹26套新裝. 當然, 時裝秀不是用錢砌出來便會好看, 大製作也可叫人早走早著. 而這個卻把簡約及低成本玩變成單調及兒戲, 浪費了品牌的靈氣. 其實低成本的時機, 就是考驗 Production House / Marketing 的真正實力及創意. 只是....

回到那26套, 開首看得津津樂道, 雖則都是一貫山本的作風, 但仍覺得好看, 真的好看. 但很可惜, 亦很快, 後上的衣服的味道走下滑, 頓時感覺時間返來了. 至於女跟男裝, 還是女裝好. 女裝呈現了設計師的剪裁風格, 男裝卻一味是 trench coat and trench coat.    

到結尾, 精選的作品一目瞭然, 但很可惜, 我仍然不知道那位日本人, 究竟是誰

Black is back...某網站說 2006FW

Correction: Black will never come back as it has never gone away.

Black is back, 似玩食字多於一切. 或者是替平平沈沈的黑色, 加上一兩下鼓聲．否則, 如何把黑色寫得令人興奮及期待?

anyway, 我明白. 但, 還是不要再說這句話吧!

返翻埋位繼續說... 現在的 Trend, 10居其9 都是三翻四翻地抄回頭．大方向的轉變, 還是要等待一個decade跳到另一個decade才... 或者有機會發生．所以, 錯過了一個令人震撼的機會, 後輩如我, 已經很難切身感受到當刻間的沖擊．Chanel 的sportswear / little black dress, Dior 的 New Look, YSL 的 Pantsuit, Comme的美學等等... I wish I were there.

而這刻間尋找到的, 多數是details或物料的新嘗試. 也不要緊, 懂得選擇、應用及享受便是．

Retro是近世紀的新詞語．500年前, 誰會花精力Retro． 

some black items....................

Deluxe_Plastic Cutiery_$120 for a set of 16


marcel wanders_cotton-and-resin crochet table $2400


todd merrill antiques_bent chromed chair

Pictures from www.style.com

Street fashion from Helsinki, the capital of Finland. It's not about the design of the clothes but the styling which looks interesting. Some even look more cool than those in Gap!

http://www.hel-looks.com/index.php

10 May 2006, Töölönlahdenkatu
Helena (62)
"I'm always dressed up in one colour only. I switch between orange, yellow and red.
My niece makes most of my clothes like this hat, jacket and skirt. If I shop, I buy something cheap and nice-coloured. I cannot tell you how big my wardrobe is! A way too big, I must admit."
pic

3 May 3006, Annankatu
Karita (19)
"Blue is my favorite colour. I also like checks like in this second hand skirt. Most of my favorite clothes are second hand. I like to make and customize clothes. Last time I made a blue pleated skirt."
pic 

22 April 2006, La Persé at Rose Garden
Vesa (20)
"The corset is a gift from Kirsi, who also lent these pumps in size 41 for me. My real size is 45 but you need to suffer for beauty, you know. I got these Mic Mac hip hop jeans when I was 14. I took the seams in and my friend sprayed my pseudonym Artemisia on the seat of them. Karoliina did the make-up and I did the hair-do."
pic 

4 April 2006, Kaapelitehdas
Susu (27)
"I created this outfit for Club La Perse last Friday. It started with these Cheap Monday jeans. Then I found the Guns'n Roses t-shirt but I wanted to have something soft with it. That's how I discovered white underwear.
I like to mix old and new. I usually fall in love with old t-shirts. Hot thing at the moment: rediscovered innocence. Next I would like to experiment with sailor style."
pic

30 March 2006, Ruoholahdenranta
Milla
"I haven't bought clothes for a long time. If I do shop, I mostly buy second hand or invest in good quality. With age my style has become more feminine and romantic. I like Gwyneth Paltrow's party look. I just saw the film Far From Heaven and the costumes inspired me a lot. I also admire people who know how to mix and combine styles and who have found their own style."
pic 

24 February 2006, Forum
Antti (22)
"Dark and tight clothes look good. Last time I bought a sleeveless t-shirt. Next I'm going to buy a new pair of shoes and jeans – tighter than these. If I had money, I would have a clothes designer and a dressmaker of my own."
pic 

4 February 2006, Hair Salon Loisto
Mari (28)
"The watering can hand bag is on loan from a friend, dress is second hand, necklace H&M. I like girlish styles, second hand and dresses. I like the style of women actresses in old Hitchcock movies.
I think anything can be in fashion now, anything individual. The next big thing: shoulder paddings."
pic 

19 November 2005, Restaurant Kaisaniemi
Ira (29)
"I'm crazy about tattoos. I took my first tattoo ten years ago and now about half of my body is tattooed. 50's style is really important for me – it's me, my Pontiac and my tulle skirt! Music and cars have always been a big thing in my family. In my style I like contrasts, like tattoos mixed with femininity."
pic 

19 November 2005, Asematunneli
Sanna (14) and Nina (14)
"We are going to a meeting of j-rock fans. Our style idols are Japanese artists like Mana-sama. It's easy to find nice clothes but they are too expensive. We like to shop at Backstreet and Morticia. We are wearing this chain because we are friends."
pic

INFO FROM
About HEL LOOKS
HEL LOOKS is selected street fashion from Helsinki, the capital of Finland. The pictures are taken in the streets and clubs of Helsinki from July 2005 onwards.
HEL LOOKS is a hobby project of Liisa Jokinen and Sampo Karjalainen. The project is a tribute to Fruits and Street magazines, the pioneers of street fashion photography.

友人到了今季的Dior Show, 嚷著失望而回．還以為可以一睹overwhelming overdone的法蘭西Dior Girl，怎料出場的全是易賣的便服貨色，頓時幻想破滅，慾望急潟．

近來很多幻想相繼破滅，本是同根生，為何兩地的水準及質素卻差天共地．不要說是針對市場需要，那是高估自己低估別人的愚昧．

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打游擊式辦店，是對品牌的一種測試．　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
就算坐穩神台上了，也得夠性格(及歷史)，才玩得起．　　　　　　　　　　
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
柴灣工廠區，點中了死穴．要買的人，un遠都會追隨去．加上，我與她也算屬於同一個社區，表面看似利弊混一式．　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
anyway，人傑帶動地靈．　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　

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上年於歐遊時錯過了，今次一天也不能遲，但亦遲了一天．　　　　　　　
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
星期天底下，排了一條龍．靜靜的擾攘著情緒...地方大裝置酷嗎? 貨架豐富藉得下放儲備嗎? 偷看內籠找到Rei image的服務員，上天下地四週白白灰灰，及每次放進入內行數三五的朝聖烈士，感覺世界兩個，像遠又是近．　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
期待的情緒維持了約半句鐘了，便得面對殘酷的現實．　　　　　　　　　　
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
約一千尺的面積，浪費了地址．6成的貨品，也括出去用作賣旗之用，大又大方的貼上了Silly Things．

餘下很comme的，不算能完全　慰藉朝comme心靈．找得到的，倉又沒有．　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
watanabe那邊廂的signature item，
是降落傘collection．雖則說好的design是timeliness，但已經擁有了便夠，無謂追加．　　　　　
 

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故事尾聲是收銀機的鈴聲，恭喜亞仔．結案陳詞則敗筆於承辦商．　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　
spary ODEUR 53 於這個post，揮發淡情．　

http://www.guerrilla-store.com
BACK EXIT OF UNIT 11
G/F, 18 KA YIP STREET
CHAI WAN

1想法 2分享 3建立 4維持 5復活

要復活，最難．

Tom Ford 復活了 Gucci，繼而回復自由身後，不久前，公開了新發展．1) 與Estee Lauder 合作推出beauty 產品系列 2) 與 Marcolin Group合作以特許經營方式，出產 eyewear ．

"I missed having a voice in popular culture"　"When your name is on a product, you feel differently" 這是電影未能滿足霍先生的原因．

今年先推出 Tom Ford for Estee Lauder 系列，那些60/70年代的鏡+粉盒及唇膏將會以新面貌面世．明年秋季便會輪到以Tom Ford為品牌的美容產品了．

至於那些充斥著錢香的香水，亦是Tom Ford的心頭目標，也離不開自己所創造的那味道吧！

設計師分不同派別，Tom Ford是聰明的一派．新公司的資金，是於舊僱主時識下的partners籌措而成．除已進行得如火如荼的新產品外，其他尚未發表的 Tom Ford for xxxx 產品，如男裝系列，亦在蘊釀中．

當然，生意最現實，只有利益互惠．

這是Tom Ford的真正銀色事業．

隔離飯香．中學時，總覺得別人校服靚，那格仔裙配黑白皮鞋是讓人羨慕的．日本妹妹的就更捧．最終，the oscar goes to International School. 沒有校服的束縛．

以下是某間國際學校的校服規格節錄：

"No uniform is required in grades 9-12. Instead, students are expected to exercise good judgment by selecting clothing that is moderate and in good taste. "

...... good taste. 但，學校裡誰可以評審good taste?　結果會否像政府康文署認為Vivenne Westwood 的展覽，並不迎合本港人的口味，而拒絕了V&A的建議．

話說回頭，現在反而想念校服．

校服代表著紀律，團體，整齊，也說其協助消除了部份的階級觀念．

校服具有自成一格的個性，天真無邪卻又似是而非，亦能與其他衣服混起來，不鎖定於學生時代穿著．

而設計師間歇也preppie起來...

1．2．3


4．5．6
1-2:burbery prorsum 05FW / 3-4:Dsquared 05FW / 5: Dior Homme 05FW / 6:burbery prorsum 05FW

校褸，V領冷外套／背心，領帶，長襪，百褶裙，格仔裙，白裇衫，校章等，通通也可解凍了．細了兩個碼也沒所謂，可以說是Dior Homme演變吧！

而自己一身藍長衫，就難攪d．

有說，現在的消費品（如電話／家電）製造商，為取悅消費者，紛紛棄功能投設計．寧願追求original design，也不用要多幾個功能．

Muji 也是其一．Muji 除了由 in-house 設計師負責外， 亦有邀請外援助陣．但，卻要求名外援匿影藏名．

曾合作的有意大利Enzo Mari 及英國 Jasper Morrison, 設計餐桌椅子；英國Sam Hecht，設計電話；日本Yohji Yamamoto Inc，監督服裝部．

                           
          Enzo Mari                      Jasper Morrison                                   Sam Hecht

設計師要隱姓埋名外，其產品標價亦要與同線產品睇齊．否則便是與品牌的理念背道而馳．

還有，設計師還須將功能s簡約化．即無乜淨．

我想，big designers' work，恰好發揮了a little bit show off 的作用... 給 in house designer看也好，給觀眾看也好．

而自己本身對Muji服飾評價參差，多數外表取勝．但那亦不要緊，我只想知，Yohji在哪裡?

MUJI 2005SS